Back in Sicily... Ragusa & Villa Romana del Casale

After our week on Malta & Gozo we flew back to Sicily to pick up a rental car and begin our trek south and west.  Heaven help us!  Even the employee who handed Eric the keys said, "Sicilians are very bad drivers." How reassuring was that?!

With Eric behind the wheel and me navigating, we headed towards Ragusa.  

The drive was incredibly scenic, with rolling hills, lush forests, and more than a few white-knuckle moments on narrow mountain roads.  We also passed prickly pear cactus orchards.  Wait, what?!  We've seen plants here and there, eaten prickly pear fruit and sampled cactus liqueur, but we were still surprised to see row after row of these giant cacti ready for harvest.

Ragusa is one of many towns leveled by the 1693 earthquake which wiped out homes and 2000-year-old architectural treasures in one blow. After the quake, residents built a new town in the hills above ancient Ragusa. Over time, they also replaced and restored sites in the original town below.

The walk from 'new' Ragusa down to 'old' Ragusa, with lots of steps, curious dogs and pretty views, was a definite highlight.

A second Ragusan highlight was dinner at Duomo.  We've had some very good food in Sicily, but this was a special splurge. Chef Ciccio Sultano is a local superstar, and his food is as delicious as it is beautiful.  He uses local ingredients to craft stunning dishes.  We ordered the Tradition + Betrayal tasting menu which consisted of playful, minuscule renditions of Sicilian classics.

Each tiny morsel was a taste sensation, and having been in Sicily for several weeks helped us appreciate the inspiration behind many of the dishes. Sultano's spin on the ever-present Sicilian sandwich was truffle mousse sandwiched between small squares of crispy chicken skin.  It was a 1-bite wonder and the best "sandwich" I've ever had!

Another memorable course was his version of 'cappuccino' -- a small cup of what looked and smelled like coffee with milk, but was actually a rich mushroom bisque hiding an oyster surprise at the bottom.  Cannoli were actually savory pastries filled with ricotta cheese topped with caviar, but made to look like the traditional sweet version with chocolate chips.

What a meal!!

From Ragusa, we traveled towards the bellybutton of Sicily to Villa Romana del Casale. Tucked away in the middle of nowhere, this sprawling Roman villa from 300AD is best known for its 37,000 square feet of incredible floor mosaics. Current theories suggest that the property belonged to a Roman senator who imported exotic animals.  The villa features mosaic scenes of animal collecting, athletic women, children fishing and hunting (and being attacked by their prey), fruit, geometric designs, and one PG-13 scene as well. The detail is unbelievable!

Ciao for now~
Peggy