Noto -- a Baroque Beauty

While Eric was working, I took a day trip from Ortigia to nearby Noto.  Noto is nicknamed "the Garden in Stone" and is considered Sicily's most pristine city.

Like many towns in this area, Noto was leveled in a devastating earthquake in 1693.  Rather than rebuild in the same spot, residents relocated the town 5 miles south.  Starting from scratch, they designed the town in one shot, and built it according to a master plan.  Instead of the typical Sicilian hodgepodge layout, Noto was rebuilt on a rectangular grid with wide straight streets and large squares.

Since most of the town was built within several decades in the 1700s using local honey-colored limestone, there is a unique and magical harmony to the buildings and public spaces.

I can't help myself... when I see a group of old men chatting on a bench, it makes me smile and I often try to take a quick photo.  It's a common sight in Italy, so I'm sure you'll see more 'guys on benches' photos in future blog posts.

Noto is known for more than its beauty.  It also has 2 renowned gelato cafes.   Some consider the gelato at Caffè Costanzo to be the best in Sicily, but I needed to see for myself.  At 9am, the place was already hopping, so I took my gelato to go -- a delicious scoop of dark chocolate with bits of chewy orange zest and a small scoop of almond.  The chocolate orange gelato was incredibly creamy and dreamy; the best breakfast a girl could hope for.

In Ortigia, we discovered a sandwich called pani cunzatu which translates as "seasoned bread" but is known locally as "bread of misfortune" or "bread of misery."  In lean times, this sandwich could be as simple as a piece of bread with some seasonings and oil sprinkled on it or with a sardine rubbed over the surface.  Even in modern times, pani cunzatu is very simple -- a hunk of bread with a light smattering of vegetables and some cheese.  

Before leaving Noto, I stopped into a tiny bakery (about the size of my closet) that sold only freshly baked rolls, pani cunzatu, and 1 type of pizza by the slice. This family business has been in operation since 1943.  The proud sandwich maestro, Samuele, cheerfully invited me into his minuscule kitchen to watch him create my sandwich -- a pile of freshly sliced cherry tomatoes and shredded cheese topped with 2 torn basil leaves.  Samuele seemed to appreciate an audience while he created my lunch.   I don't even like sandwiches, but it was worth it for the show!  

Ciao for now~
Peggy